Wednesday, February 8, 2017

Crochet Checkerboard Stitch

I love to brainstorm with small swatches for future baby blanket projects. I'd love to explain how I'm doing this checkerboard stitch.




This is made with all sc (single crochet) stitch but I am carrying yarn throughout so it is easy to drop a color and pick it back up easily. The pattern repeat is 5 + 1. Meaning, start with a chain that is a multiple of 5 then add one more chain.

Start with Color A, and sc in the second chain from the hook and the next three chains. Start a sc in the next chain, but stop before you pull through the final two loops on the hook and change to color B. Pull color B through the two loops and sc into the next 5 chain spaces, stopping and changing color before you finish the 5th sc.

Continue repeating this pattern until you get to the end of your chain. Chain one and turn.

Repeat for 4 more rows. (The blocks are 5 sc across by 5 rows high)



To change color at the end of the row, there really is nothing different other than change before you turn. Chain one in the new color and begin the row as usual, just with a new color.

Now, several of my Instagram followers requested I put a video tutorial up to really show how it's done. Friends, my skill are with yarn, not video, but I did my best, because I really want you all to learn! So, here you go:



I'll get back after I finish the blanket to let you know what border I come up with!

But isn't this a cool stitch? And so EASY!

Thanks for stopping by!

My favorite crochet place to be is on Instagram @daisyfarmcrafts. I also have a stitches only account @daisyfarm.stitches. Come and follow along! Also, create an account, share your work! It's a blast to connect with fellow crocheters. So much to learn and be inspired by!!

xxoo

Tiff

Sunday, December 18, 2016

Crochet Buffalo Plaid

I'm making a scarf using the interlocking block stitch with four colors to make it look like buffalo plaid.


I'm using Caron Simply Soft in black, light grey, dark grey, white and a size "h" hook from Boye.

Here's the pattern:

Start with a base chain of multiples of 6, then add 3. (You'll see this written in other patterns as 6 + 3)

Row 1: With black, dc in the 4th chain from the hook, (the first 3 chains you are skipping are counted as your first dc), do one more dc in the next chain. Then chain 3, skip over three chains, and dc in the next 3 chains. You are creating blocks and spaces of 3. Repeat this to the end. (The last 3 stitches should be dc)

Switch to light grey yarn color, chain 3 and turn

Row 2: dc into each of the chains on the base chain row, skipping over the dc you just made from the row before. you are filling in the blocks. (in the example above, you started with black, now you are using light grey) (Can you see how they line up next to each other?)

(If this is confusing to you, I have a video that shows how I dc into the row below to fill in the space. Sometimes this is called a dc spike stitch. It simply means you are inserting your hook one row down.) (This clip shows what you will be doing throughout, but for this one time only, to get started you will dc into the base chains)



When you get to the end of the row, (your last space is filled with 3 dc) chain 3 and slip stitch into the top of the turning chain 3. Make sure you change yarn color before you pull through the slip stitch. I changed to dark grey here.

Row 4: Chain 3 with your dark grey color, (this counts as your first dc) dc into the top of the next two dc, (on top of the black) chain three, skipping over the light grey blocks, dc into the top of the next 3 black blocks. When you get to the last three dc, change color to white and turn. (the very last dc will be into the base of the chain 3 that counts as a dc, try and find that space where the yarn was switched and the dc you work into that spot will cover it and also help secure it)

Row 5: With the white color, chain 3, skip over the block of dark grey, and do 3 dc into the light grey, then chain three, repeat to the end, doing a slip stitch just like in row 3. (remember to change color before pulling through, or another way to say it is pull through that slip stitch with the new color) 

You will be repeating rows 4 and 5, changing colors until you get the scarf as long as you'd like. 

Here is a video clip of me changing colors at the end of a dc row, notice how I don't complete the dc fully, I change yarn color then complete the stitch: 




To recap on color changes: 

Start with Black, change to light grey, then to dark gray, then to white, back to black. Keep in this order. It helps to have your yarn lined up in this order until you really can see the pattern forming. 

Final note: THE ENDS!! I tried crocheting over them and they showed through and ruined the look of the plaid. (Maybe if you are using different yarn than me, they would hide better?) But, I couldn't get them to hide.

My plan, since I haven't completed the scarf quite yet, is to pull them tight, maybe knot a few together, and then crochet around the whole scarf in black over all the ends. I hope that it works! I think it will, but I will come back and do an edit and let you know.

If it doesn't, I guess I will be weaving in for the next ten years! ha!

Let me see your work! Share with me on instagram @daisyfarmcrafts or use the #daisyfarmcrafts 

Thanks for stopping by,

If you do have questions, email me daisyfarmcrafts@gmail.com, or leave a comment, but email is faster.

xoxo

Tiffany

Wednesday, December 7, 2016

Crochet Baby Sweater in white, pink and gray


I use a free pattern on Ravelry to make this baby sweater, but modify it with only a few changes.

(I also am using different yarn than the original pattern. I'm using organic cotton from Blue Sky Fibers, which is about a 4 weight yarn. This sweater turns out to be about a 9-12 month size. I used a 5.5mm "I" Hook.



Find the pattern by clicking this sentence









One the sixth row, instead of hdc (half double crochet) in every space, I alternated hdc, hdc3tog in the same space making a cluster. (Instruction for a hdc3tog or cluster: yo, insert hook into the space, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook back into the same space, pull up a loop, yo and do it one last time, then pull through all loops on your hook, move on to the next space with a normal hdc)

In the picture above, it's the second gray stripe that I did that technique. (The first gray stripe I'm counting as the neck.)

I only did this technique with the grey and pink. I did have to fudge a little under the arms, meaning, I would look ahead, and if the last stitch was going to be a cluster, I'd do two hdc in a row, but under the arm where it wasn't noticeable. The reason being is I wanted the beginning and end of each row to be a hdc. I hope that makes sense. 

The other change I had to make was joining the sleeves much earlier than row 14 which is suggested in the pattern. Because I was using much larger yarn, and I wanted to make a sweater for about a ninth month old, I joined the sleeves at about row 8. 

The last suggestion I have for you is to practice this pattern and get a feel for it. Make it first the way it's written, so you can see how to modify it. I have used and modified this pattern several times and what I usually tell myself is just sub a stitch for a stitch and see what happens. 


I did make a simple heart in a magic ring that I sewed onto one side. 

Pattern for that is as follows:

start a magic ring with 2 chains, then do 1dc, 1tc, 1dc, 4sc, 1dc, 4 sc, 1dc, 1tc, all into the magic ring loop. Pull it tight and arrange the stitches, then chain 2 and slip stitch into the middle of the ring, tighten one more time and cut a long tail. I use this tail as the yarn that sews the heart onto the sweater. Weave in the ends and your done.







before I added sleeves

The pattern doesn't exactly tell you how to make sleeves, just to add them if you wish, but I found that if I kept really good track of the amount of stitches in each round, there wasn't a problem. When I got down to the wrist and change color the first time, I decreased the stitches in the round by 2. (Which means I did a hdc2tog over 2 stitches to make one)

I hope you have success! If you sub the yarn and use an acrylic I think the clusters will be poofy and not quite so flat. Yarn type does make a project look different.

Either way, I'd love to see what you come up with! Tag me on instagram @daisyfarmcrafts or use the #daisyfarmcrafts so everybody can see!

If you have questions, either leave a comment, or email me at daisyfarmcrafts@gmail.com and I will try and help you as best I can.

Thank you so much for stopping by!

xxoo

Tiffany


Friday, December 2, 2016

Crochet Modified Moss Stitch Scarf

A few posts back, I described how to make the moss stitch. Sometimes called Linen Stitch, Granite Stitch, Seed Stitch, any one else want to suggest a name? I guess when you are a lovely stitch, you can have as many names as you would like. 

I modified the stitch a small amount, and got a completely different look for this scarf. 



Here is what I did: 
Supplies: 
Yarn Bee Interlocked Yarn in Mustard, Ivory, Charcoal, two skeins each
Size "N" hook

Chain an even number of stitches. For this I chained 30

Row 1: In the 4th chain from the hook, sc. *ch 1, sk next ch, sc into the next.* Repeat across. The last stitch should be a sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 2: *sc into the front loop of the first chain space, (this is the modification, instead of sc-ing into the chain space, go into the front loop only) chain 1,* Repeat the pattern across. The last sc will be into the front loop of the 2nd chain of the turning chain from the row before. Always look for this certain stitch so your sides remain straight. 

That's it for the pattern,

Here are the color changes I used: 
14 rows Ivory
14 rows Mustard
3 rows charcoal
3 rows ivory
3 rows charcoal
3 rows ivory
14 rows Mustard
14 rows ivory
14 rows charcoal
14 rows mustard
3 rows ivory
3 rows charcoal
3 rows ivory
3 rows charcoal
14 rows mustard
14 rows ivory
  



Enjoy!

I love to see all the crochet! I really do, so tag me if you decided to make some version of this! Find me on Instagram @daisyfarmcrafts. Use the #daisyfarmcrafts if you'd like and let us all see! There is a great community on Instagram for crocheters. You won't be sad joining up and sharing what you make. 

Tuesday, November 29, 2016

Crochet Braided Ear Warmer



This girl is my epilepsy warrior and I couldn't let November pass by without making something purple to bring awareness to this condition that millions of people battle every single day. 

Her story started with serious, life-threatening seizures, when she was only nine years old. By the time she was eleven she had been hospitalized too many times to count. Our last option to help her was to have her undergo brain surgery to remove the lesion that was causing all the problems. 

She had surgery Nov. 15, 2012 and lost her amygdala, hippocampus, and part of her left temporal lobe, but she regained her freedom from seizures. For the last four years, she has worked incredibly hard to relearn vocabulary, reading skills, and math skills. She struggles everyday with short term memory loss, but you won't meet a more positive, fun-loving, determined, energetic girl. Everyone she meets becomes her instant best friend. 

Purple represents power and strength, wisdom and nobility. Perfect choice for everyone that fights and battles epilespy every single day.

And now for the pattern: 




I used Hobby Lobby's "I Love this Yarn" brand yarn with a "J" hook. So the amount of chains I put down apply to that yarn. If you use a different kind, just chain and measure around your ears and do a great guess as to how long it should be. Just make sure you count the chains before you start, because you will be making three strips.

Chain 64

ROW 1: Single Crochet (sc) in the second chain from the hook and in every chain until the end, chain 1 and turn

ROW 2: sc in the first sc from the hook, (or the last sc you just made in the row before) and in every sc across to the end. chain 1 and turn.

Repeat row 2, two more times. Finish off by leaving a long tail at the end. (You will use this to sew the other strips together.

Repeat this strip two more times so you have three long strips.

(Here is something weird that happened as I made this. After I finished the first strip, I crocheted my next 64 chains and it was about 6 inches shorter than the finished strip. Don't be alarmed! It will stretch out and match up just fine, but it was a strange moment of panic! But, important to count ahead, if you are using different yarn, have a different size head, etc.)

When you have the three strips done, pile them on top of each other and take one of the ends and sew them loosely together. It helps to have them somewhat secure when you braid. Braid the strips. Sew the other end loosely together and arrange the strips into a nice braid. Then, take all the remaining ends and sew them together making them into a circle. The beauty of yarn is that you really can go in and out and the stitches will hardly be seen. I left one of the tails very long so I could run a stitch through the whole headband to secure the braids. 

You'll see when it comes together. 

Hide the final ends and try on your ear warmer/head band and see if you don't feel pretty good that you made something yourself. 

Did you make it purple? Would you mind sharing what you made and using the #epilespy on Instagram or twitter? We sure would be grateful for any small act that can bring awareness.

Find me on Instagram @daisyfarmcrafts  Tag me too! Let's be insta friends! I love all the crochet, and I love to see what everybody makes. Another hashtag I check out regularly is #crochetersofinstagram. It's a friendly place for all crochet lovers! Be brave and join in the fun:)


xxxx

Tiffany

Wednesday, November 23, 2016

Counterpane Stitch Scarf


It's as light weight and airy as it looks. This scarf works up fast and turns out beautiful!

Here is what I did:

Yarn: Yarn Bee Brushworks at Hobby Lobby, 4 skeins any choice of color. I used an ivory, a grey, and a variegated.

Use your own creativity to create the blocks of color I will teach you the stitch.

Chain any even number. I did 30, with and h size hook and it seemed just about right. Not too thin, Not too thick.


In the 4th chain from the hook, do an elongated sc, (insert hook pull up a loop and pull through one loop, yo and pull through remaining two loops on the hook) ch 1, skip next ch and do an elongated sc in the next stitch. Repeat a series of elongated sc, ch 1 all the way across ending in the last chain with a final elongated sc.

2nd ROW: chain 2 and turn. Elongated sc into the next chain space, (not actual chain but into the space created by skipping a chain from the row before), chain 1, elongated sc into the next chain space and repeat the series again all the way across finding the space between the 2 turning chains and the last elongated sc, to work the final elongated sc.  Chain 2 and turn.

The following rows: repeat row 2, over and over until you decide the color should be changed.

Feel free to let your inner artist come out and choose the width of the blocks of color and when they should be changed.

Add a fringe if you want, pom-poms, or leave it plain. Either way, I'd love to see what you come up with!

Find me on Instagram @daisyfarmcrafts Use the #daisyfarmcrafts to make sure I see your creation! I love seeing all the crochet and being inspired further by other artists!

Monday, September 26, 2016

Crochet Ripple Blanket

How do you Ripple?




At this point I have made a dozen or so ripple blankets, aka chevron, and there are so many ways to make the peak and make the valley. I like the way this version doesn't leave holes. Sometimes holes are good! They add to the look of the pattern, but for this blanket, I wanted the look to be smooth and flowing, like ripples!

Here is the pattern:

ch a multiple of 12 + 3. I usually make my blankets 32-36 inches wide. About that high as well.

Row 1: dc in 4th chain from hook, first three chains counts as a dc. *1dc in each of the next 3 ch, dc2tog twice, 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch, 2dc in next ch twice, repeat from * across to the last ch, 2dc into that last ch.

Row 2: ch 3, dc in that next stitch, (if you count down from the hook it will be the 4th ch) *1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 2dctog twice, 1dc in each of the next 3 sts, 2dc in the next st twice, repeat from * across to the last chain, 2dc into the top of the ch3 turning chain from the previous row.

rep row 2- over and over.

This is a fairly common pattern, I've seen it lots of other places and a good one to practice over and over to get comfortable finding the top of that dang turning chain! Keep it loose and try your best to go under both loops of that chain. It helps to make the sides very straight. Also, this ripple is pretty easy to keep track of your place. 3 dc separate each peak and valley. 2dc on each end. Keep that in mind as you go and you'll do great!

Don't be afraid to take out mistakes, it's not as long to make them up as you think. I had to learn that the hard way. Sometimes I'm going along and I think that I can make up for the missed stitch or the extra I put in between the peak and the valley, it's not worth it-even though it is so tempting! Just take it out and start over. Your blanket, in the end, will thank you!

As always, I love seeing what you make. I really do. Instagram is the easiest place to tag me or post under #daisyfarmcrafts. Don't have Instagram? It's a really fun place for crocheters so I highly recommend that you start one! Everyone shares everything and there are so many great ideas. Plus a lot of nice people that will ooh and aww over your work. I'm serious!

Find me @daisyfarmcrafts

xxoo

Tiffany