Sunday, December 18, 2016

Crochet Buffalo Plaid

I'm making a scarf using the interlocking block stitch with four colors to make it look like buffalo plaid.

I'm using Caron Simply Soft in black, light grey, dark grey, white and a size "h" hook from Boye.

Here's the pattern:

Start with a base chain of multiples of 6, then add 3. (You'll see this written in other patterns as 6 + 3)

Row 1: With black, dc in the 4th chain from the hook, (the first 3 chains you are skipping are counted as your first dc), do one more dc in the next chain. Then chain 3, skip over three chains, and dc in the next 3 chains. You are creating blocks and spaces of 3. Repeat this to the end. (The last 3 stitches should be dc)

Switch to light grey yarn color, chain 3 and turn

Row 2: dc into each of the chains on the base chain row, skipping over the dc you just made from the row before. you are filling in the blocks. (in the example above, you started with black, now you are using light grey) (Can you see how they line up next to each other?)

(If this is confusing to you, I have a video that shows how I dc into the row below to fill in the space. Sometimes this is called a dc spike stitch. It simply means you are inserting your hook one row down.) (This clip shows what you will be doing throughout, but for this one time only, to get started you will dc into the base chains)

When you get to the end of the row, (your last space is filled with 3 dc) chain 3 and slip stitch into the top of the turning chain 3. Make sure you change yarn color before you pull through the slip stitch. I changed to dark grey here.

Row 4: Chain 3 with your dark grey color, (this counts as your first dc) dc into the top of the next two dc, (on top of the black) chain three, skipping over the light grey blocks, dc into the top of the next 3 black blocks. When you get to the last three dc, change color to white and turn. (the very last dc will be into the base of the chain 3 that counts as a dc, try and find that space where the yarn was switched and the dc you work into that spot will cover it and also help secure it)

Row 5: With the white color, chain 3, skip over the block of dark grey, and do 3 dc into the light grey, then chain three, repeat to the end, doing a slip stitch just like in row 3. (remember to change color before pulling through, or another way to say it is pull through that slip stitch with the new color) 

You will be repeating rows 4 and 5, changing colors until you get the scarf as long as you'd like. 

Here is a video clip of me changing colors at the end of a dc row, notice how I don't complete the dc fully, I change yarn color then complete the stitch: 

To recap on color changes: 

Start with Black, change to light grey, then to dark gray, then to white, back to black. Keep in this order. It helps to have your yarn lined up in this order until you really can see the pattern forming. 

Final note: THE ENDS!! I tried crocheting over them and they showed through and ruined the look of the plaid. (Maybe if you are using different yarn than me, they would hide better?) But, I couldn't get them to hide.

My plan, since I haven't completed the scarf quite yet, is to pull them tight, maybe knot a few together, and then crochet around the whole scarf in black over all the ends. I hope that it works! I think it will, but I will come back and do an edit and let you know.

If it doesn't, I guess I will be weaving in for the next ten years! ha!

Let me see your work! Share with me on instagram @daisyfarmcrafts or use the #daisyfarmcrafts 

Thanks for stopping by,

If you do have questions, email me, or leave a comment, but email is faster.



Wednesday, December 7, 2016

Crochet Baby Sweater in white, pink and gray

I use a free pattern on Ravelry to make this baby sweater, but modify it with only a few changes.

(I also am using different yarn than the original pattern. I'm using organic cotton from Blue Sky Fibers, which is about a 4 weight yarn. This sweater turns out to be about a 9-12 month size. I used a 5.5mm "I" Hook.

Find the pattern by clicking this sentence

One the sixth row, instead of hdc (half double crochet) in every space, I alternated hdc, hdc3tog in the same space making a cluster. (Instruction for a hdc3tog or cluster: yo, insert hook into the space, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook back into the same space, pull up a loop, yo and do it one last time, then pull through all loops on your hook, move on to the next space with a normal hdc)

In the picture above, it's the second gray stripe that I did that technique. (The first gray stripe I'm counting as the neck.)

I only did this technique with the grey and pink. I did have to fudge a little under the arms, meaning, I would look ahead, and if the last stitch was going to be a cluster, I'd do two hdc in a row, but under the arm where it wasn't noticeable. The reason being is I wanted the beginning and end of each row to be a hdc. I hope that makes sense. 

The other change I had to make was joining the sleeves much earlier than row 14 which is suggested in the pattern. Because I was using much larger yarn, and I wanted to make a sweater for about a ninth month old, I joined the sleeves at about row 8. 

The last suggestion I have for you is to practice this pattern and get a feel for it. Make it first the way it's written, so you can see how to modify it. I have used and modified this pattern several times and what I usually tell myself is just sub a stitch for a stitch and see what happens. 

I did make a simple heart in a magic ring that I sewed onto one side. 

Pattern for that is as follows:

start a magic ring with 2 chains, then do 1dc, 1tc, 1dc, 4sc, 1dc, 4 sc, 1dc, 1tc, all into the magic ring loop. Pull it tight and arrange the stitches, then chain 2 and slip stitch into the middle of the ring, tighten one more time and cut a long tail. I use this tail as the yarn that sews the heart onto the sweater. Weave in the ends and your done.

before I added sleeves

The pattern doesn't exactly tell you how to make sleeves, just to add them if you wish, but I found that if I kept really good track of the amount of stitches in each round, there wasn't a problem. When I got down to the wrist and change color the first time, I decreased the stitches in the round by 2. (Which means I did a hdc2tog over 2 stitches to make one)

I hope you have success! If you sub the yarn and use an acrylic I think the clusters will be poofy and not quite so flat. Yarn type does make a project look different.

Either way, I'd love to see what you come up with! Tag me on instagram @daisyfarmcrafts or use the #daisyfarmcrafts so everybody can see!

If you have questions, either leave a comment, or email me at and I will try and help you as best I can.

Thank you so much for stopping by!



Friday, December 2, 2016

Crochet Modified Moss Stitch Scarf

A few posts back, I described how to make the moss stitch. Sometimes called Linen Stitch, Granite Stitch, Seed Stitch, any one else want to suggest a name? I guess when you are a lovely stitch, you can have as many names as you would like. 

I modified the stitch a small amount, and got a completely different look for this scarf. 

Here is what I did: 
Yarn Bee Interlocked Yarn in Mustard, Ivory, Charcoal, two skeins each
Size "N" hook

Chain an even number of stitches. For this I chained 30

Row 1: In the 4th chain from the hook, sc. *ch 1, sk next ch, sc into the next.* Repeat across. The last stitch should be a sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 2: *sc into the front loop of the first chain space, (this is the modification, instead of sc-ing into the chain space, go into the front loop only) chain 1,* Repeat the pattern across. The last sc will be into the front loop of the 2nd chain of the turning chain from the row before. Always look for this certain stitch so your sides remain straight. 

That's it for the pattern,

Here are the color changes I used: 
14 rows Ivory
14 rows Mustard
3 rows charcoal
3 rows ivory
3 rows charcoal
3 rows ivory
14 rows Mustard
14 rows ivory
14 rows charcoal
14 rows mustard
3 rows ivory
3 rows charcoal
3 rows ivory
3 rows charcoal
14 rows mustard
14 rows ivory


I love to see all the crochet! I really do, so tag me if you decided to make some version of this! Find me on Instagram @daisyfarmcrafts. Use the #daisyfarmcrafts if you'd like and let us all see! There is a great community on Instagram for crocheters. You won't be sad joining up and sharing what you make. 

Tuesday, November 29, 2016

Crochet Braided Ear Warmer

This girl is my epilepsy warrior and I couldn't let November pass by without making something purple to bring awareness to this condition that millions of people battle every single day. 

Her story started with serious, life-threatening seizures, when she was only nine years old. By the time she was eleven she had been hospitalized too many times to count. Our last option to help her was to have her undergo brain surgery to remove the lesion that was causing all the problems. 

She had surgery Nov. 15, 2012 and lost her amygdala, hippocampus, and part of her left temporal lobe, but she regained her freedom from seizures. For the last four years, she has worked incredibly hard to relearn vocabulary, reading skills, and math skills. She struggles everyday with short term memory loss, but you won't meet a more positive, fun-loving, determined, energetic girl. Everyone she meets becomes her instant best friend. 

Purple represents power and strength, wisdom and nobility. Perfect choice for everyone that fights and battles epilespy every single day.

And now for the pattern: 

I used Hobby Lobby's "I Love this Yarn" brand yarn with a "J" hook. So the amount of chains I put down apply to that yarn. If you use a different kind, just chain and measure around your ears and do a great guess as to how long it should be. Just make sure you count the chains before you start, because you will be making three strips.

Chain 64

ROW 1: Single Crochet (sc) in the second chain from the hook and in every chain until the end, chain 1 and turn

ROW 2: sc in the first sc from the hook, (or the last sc you just made in the row before) and in every sc across to the end. chain 1 and turn.

Repeat row 2, two more times. Finish off by leaving a long tail at the end. (You will use this to sew the other strips together.

Repeat this strip two more times so you have three long strips.

(Here is something weird that happened as I made this. After I finished the first strip, I crocheted my next 64 chains and it was about 6 inches shorter than the finished strip. Don't be alarmed! It will stretch out and match up just fine, but it was a strange moment of panic! But, important to count ahead, if you are using different yarn, have a different size head, etc.)

When you have the three strips done, pile them on top of each other and take one of the ends and sew them loosely together. It helps to have them somewhat secure when you braid. Braid the strips. Sew the other end loosely together and arrange the strips into a nice braid. Then, take all the remaining ends and sew them together making them into a circle. The beauty of yarn is that you really can go in and out and the stitches will hardly be seen. I left one of the tails very long so I could run a stitch through the whole headband to secure the braids. 

You'll see when it comes together. 

Hide the final ends and try on your ear warmer/head band and see if you don't feel pretty good that you made something yourself. 

Did you make it purple? Would you mind sharing what you made and using the #epilespy on Instagram or twitter? We sure would be grateful for any small act that can bring awareness.

Find me on Instagram @daisyfarmcrafts  Tag me too! Let's be insta friends! I love all the crochet, and I love to see what everybody makes. Another hashtag I check out regularly is #crochetersofinstagram. It's a friendly place for all crochet lovers! Be brave and join in the fun:)



Wednesday, November 23, 2016

Counterpane Stitch Scarf

It's as light weight and airy as it looks. This scarf works up fast and turns out beautiful!

Here is what I did:

Yarn: Yarn Bee Brushworks at Hobby Lobby, 4 skeins any choice of color. I used an ivory, a grey, and a variegated.

Use your own creativity to create the blocks of color I will teach you the stitch.

Chain any even number. I did 30, with and h size hook and it seemed just about right. Not too thin, Not too thick.

In the 4th chain from the hook, do an elongated sc, (insert hook pull up a loop and pull through one loop, yo and pull through remaining two loops on the hook) ch 1, skip next ch and do an elongated sc in the next stitch. Repeat a series of elongated sc, ch 1 all the way across ending in the last chain with a final elongated sc.

2nd ROW: chain 2 and turn. Elongated sc into the next chain space, (not actual chain but into the space created by skipping a chain from the row before), chain 1, elongated sc into the next chain space and repeat the series again all the way across finding the space between the 2 turning chains and the last elongated sc, to work the final elongated sc.  Chain 2 and turn.

The following rows: repeat row 2, over and over until you decide the color should be changed.

Feel free to let your inner artist come out and choose the width of the blocks of color and when they should be changed.

Add a fringe if you want, pom-poms, or leave it plain. Either way, I'd love to see what you come up with!

Find me on Instagram @daisyfarmcrafts Use the #daisyfarmcrafts to make sure I see your creation! I love seeing all the crochet and being inspired further by other artists!

Monday, September 26, 2016

Simple Ripple Crochet Blanket

How do you Ripple?

At this point I have made a dozen or so ripple blankets, aka chevron, and there are so many ways to make the peak and make the valley. I like the way this version doesn't leave holes. Sometimes holes are good! They add to the look of the pattern, but for this blanket, I wanted the look to be smooth and flowing, like ripples!

Here is the pattern:

ch a multiple of 12 + 3. I usually make my blankets 32-36 inches wide. About that high as well.

Row 1: dc in 4th chain from hook, first three chains counts as a dc. *1dc in each of the next 3 ch, dc2tog twice, 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch, 2dc in next ch twice, repeat from * across to the last ch, 2dc into that last ch.

Row 2: ch 3, dc in that next stitch, (if you count down from the hook it will be the 4th ch) *1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 2dctog twice, 1dc in each of the next 3 sts, 2dc in the next st twice, repeat from * across to the last chain, 2dc into the top of the ch3 turning chain from the previous row.

rep row 2- over and over.

This is a fairly common pattern, I've seen it lots of other places and a good one to practice over and over to get comfortable finding the top of that dang turning chain! Keep it loose and try your best to go under both loops of that chain. It helps to make the sides very straight. Also, this ripple is pretty easy to keep track of your place. 3 dc separate each peak and valley. 2dc on each end. Keep that in mind as you go and you'll do great!

Don't be afraid to take out mistakes, it's not as long to make them up as you think. I had to learn that the hard way. Sometimes I'm going along and I think that I can make up for the missed stitch or the extra I put in between the peak and the valley, it's not worth it-even though it is so tempting! Just take it out and start over. Your blanket, in the end, will thank you!

As always, I love seeing what you make. I really do. Instagram is the easiest place to tag me or post under #daisyfarmcrafts. Don't have Instagram? It's a really fun place for crocheters so I highly recommend that you start one! Everyone shares everything and there are so many great ideas. Plus a lot of nice people that will ooh and aww over your work. I'm serious!

Find me @daisyfarmcrafts



Monday, September 19, 2016

Crochet Moss Stitch

I have found a fool-proof-straight-edge-stitch!

I'm excited to share, although, I do know probably many, many, crocheters know this stitch already! But, what I like about it, is the ease of turning at the end of each row. No finding the exact sc to stitch into. The last stitch is in between the ch-2 turning chain and last sc. I'm jumping ahead I know, but you'll see when you try this pattern. 

Here's the pattern for a simple scarf in Lion Brand Yarn "Scarfie" It's a "5" weight bulky yarn. I used a size 8.00 L hook. 

Chain 26 (or any even number)

Row 1: sc in the 4th chain from hook, *ch1, sk next ch, sc in next ch, repeat from * to the end of the row. (The last stitch should be a sc in the last ch)

Row 2: ch 2, turn, sc in ch 1 space from previous row, *ch 1, sk 1 sc, sc in next ch 1 sp, repeat from * to the very end, the last sc should be worked into the space between the ch2 turning chain and sc from the previous row. 

Row 3: Repeat row 2 as many times as you'd like to finish your scarf and make it as long as you'd like. I used the whole skein and it is wonderfully long and can wrap several times around your neck. 

That's it! Enjoy having straight edges on each side of your scarf! 

Now, if you try it, let me see! Let's be crochet insta-friends! I'm on Instagram @daisyfarmcrafts. Tag me or use the #daisyfarmcrafts so we can make even more moss stitch friends! 

I'm also pinning this to Pinterest if you'd like to get it on one of your pin boards and save for later. I also have a facebook page called daisy farm crafts where it will be posted as well.

Thank you for stopping by! 



Tuesday, September 6, 2016

Crochet Mermaid Tail

I've made a mermaid tail!

and now I'm going to attempt to write the pattern up so I can remember how I did it! 

The following is a picture of the top of the blanket. I decided to start with a border before I started the shells. I felt like it would give the blanket/tail a starting point. 

The following is a picture of the gathers and at the end of the blanket. The tail is made separately and attached last. 

And, here is a picture of the tail attached. 

Hopefully, that gives you an idea of what you'll be making. 

The Yarn: I used Hobby Lobby's Yarn Bee Soft Secret size 4 medium weight. 6oz, 198 yards per skein. I bought 7 skeins. I recommend a variegated yarn for this pattern so you get lots of color without having to change colors. But, if you want to do a solid feel free! I'd love to see how that would turn out. 

The hook: size H

The Pattern: 

chain 152

ROW 1 : hdc in 3rd chain from hook and each stitch across. Turn.

ROW 2: ch 2, hdc in the first hdc and each across in the back loop only. (This gives the top of the blanket a nice ridged look.) Turn.

ROW 3 and 4: repeat row 2

ROW 5: ch 3, dc in each stitch across, under both loops. Turn.

ROW 6: ch 3 (Starting the shells) 3 dc in 4th dc of previous row, ch 3, in the SAME stitch do 3 more dc, sk 4 stitches, *3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc, repeat from * to end of the row, 1 dc in the top of the turning chain of previous row, turn.

ROW 7: ch 3,  *3dc in the next ch 3 space, ch 3, 3 dc in the same chain space again, repeat from * to end of row, 1 dc in the top of the turning chain, turn.

ROW 8- 37: repeat row 7. (Feel free to estimate how many rows you want to actually do depending on the size of the child or adult you are making this for. The size I made is for about a 3 year old. approximately 36 inches long not including the tail. At row 37 the blanket will be about 22 inches long, so at this point if you want to make it bigger, keep going.)

ROW 38: Don't turn at the end of row 37, join with a slip stitch into the top of the turning ch and start crocheting in the round. (Do the last 1 dc into the top of the turning chain like the previous rows, then find the turning chain when you bring the two ends together to make a circle and slip stitch into that stitch, then crochet the shells like you've been doing. Maybe that helps to understand? I hope so!)

ROW 39 -60: Each time around decrease a row by one shell. The best way I can explain how to do that and the way I did it, so it sort of looked gathered and so I could disguise the decrease is to randomly, one time in each row, do only 1 dc in a chain 3 space, then move along to the next ch 3 space like normally with a 3dc, ch3, 3dc. (But I also want to encourage you to take some artistic license and do your own style of decreasing. if you want it tighter on the bottom or more gathered, wait to decrease, and do a 1 dc every 4 or 5 shells to really gather it up.) 

ROWS 61- until I thought it was gathered enough to my liking, (about 3 or 4 more rows) I decreased 3 or 4 times on one row using the same technique. 


Again, I'm going to encourage you to use your artistic self and decide how dramatic of a tail you'd like to make. I think the amount of chains you do depends on how long you have made your tail. We will be starting on a long end, then decreasing to the center, then adding back to make the other side of the fin. The long straight edge of the fin will simply be slip stitched to the bottom of the blanket, gathering it up as you go. 

So I chained about 50,

ROW 1: in the 4th chain from the hook dc, and dc in each stitch across, turn.

ROW 2: chain 2, (in the back loop here and throughout) dc2tog, dc in the back loop in the remaining stitches across, turn.

ROW 3: ch 2, dc across to the last 2 stitches and dc2together those two stitches. turn.

Row 4: ch 2, dc2tog, dc across, turn.

Do as many decreases as you wish to the point. I did 18 rows. 

When you decide then: 

Dc2tog twice, then dc in each st, turn.

Ch 2, dc across to the last two stitches and in each of those, 2 dc, (increase) turn.

Ch2, 2 dc into the first stitch then one dc in each stitch across, turn

continue increasing until you match the number of rows you did on the one side. 

Always crochet in the back loop of every dc to achieve a ridge look. 

attach the tail, hide all your ends and you are finished! 

I wish you good luck understanding my instructions, but please let me know if you find a mistake, or if something doesn't make sense. Also feel free to modify and use your own ideas! 

Here's a tip about using the variegated yarn, there are very few ends to sew in, and it makes the tail look so mermaid-ish! I do like this yarn bee brand, but I bet caron simply soft would do a good job and is comparable to the yarn bee. In Red heart, maybe try the "with love" line, but stay away from super saver, I just don't think you'll like the results. It tends to be stiff and scratchy. 

If you find something that works, I'd love to know too! 

I'm on instagram @daisyfarmcrafts so tag me so I can see your tail! I also have a facebook page Daisy Farm Crafts that you can like and leave me messages or a picture! I love to meet my fellow crocheters! 

Love to you all,


Sunday, August 28, 2016

Scarfie Crocheted Mixed Cluster Stitch Cowl

This scarf! Cowl! Whatever you want to call it is awesome and I made it with one skein of Lion Brand Yarn "Scarfie" in mustard/cream.

Here is the pattern:

Chain multiples of 2 then add 1 extra chain. I used an 8.00 L size hook, if you use something else your chains might be smaller or bigger than mine so, have your chain measure about 20 inches in length to achieve the look you see in the picture.

(tip: buy 2 skeins of the Scarfie just in case you go bigger or decide you want to add more rows)

ROW 1: sc into the third chain from hook, (counts as first sc) and in each ch across.

ROW 2: turn, ch 2 (counts as first hdc) yo, insert hook into first stitch, pull through only one loop, yo, pull through two loops, (two loops left on hook) (long dc made, or first half of mixed cluster), sk one stitch, yo, insert hook into next stitch, pull through one loop, yo, insert hook again into same stitch, pull through one loop, yo, pull through all six loops on hook (mixed cluster stitch made MC) ch 1 to close the cluster. **yo, insert hook into THE SAME STITCH, pull through one loop, yarn over pull through two loops, leave two loops on hook (long dc made, first half of MC made), sk one st, yo, insert hook into next stitch, pull through one loop, yo, insert hook again into same stitch, pull through one loop, yo, pull through all six loops on hook (MC finished) ch 1 to close the cluster. Repeat from ** ending with the last stitch in the top of the turning chain with hdc.

ROW 3: ch 2 (very loosely, this counts as your first sc), sk 1 st, sc into the next and every st across, making sure you sc in the turning ch from previous row.

Repeat row 2 and 3 until you have the length desired to wrap around your neck. I did 20 MC rows with 20 sc rows in between.

Choose whichever way you like to sew the right sides together. I did a dc join. Thats it, sew in loose ends and you are done!

Good luck!

Feel free to pin this to Pinterest to share with others, there is a little button at the end of this post. Also, I invite you to follow me along on instagram @daisyfarmcrafts and tag me when you finish! I'd love to see! or be brave and use #daisyfarmcrafts so everyone can see!

Love to all,


Monday, August 22, 2016

Crochet Silt Stitch Cowl

I've discovered another stitch that works up amazingly well with a chunky weight (5) yarn--The Silt Stitch.

I love that it is fairly simple, yet looks complicated and elegant.

The yarn I used is Lion Brand, woolspun with a size with an 8.00 "L" size hook. Check the label of the yarn you want to use and see if it says "5" on the weight. Your cowl will turn out differently with a smaller weight yarn and of course go up or down a size on the hook-everyone has different tension and yours might not be the same as mine. 


chain a multiple of 3. For mine I chained 27. It seemed to be a pretty good distance between my chin and collar bone. I wanted this one tall enough to be able to pull up over my nose for very cold weather. This scarf is worked back and forth, not in the round back and forth. Hope that's not confusing. 

ROW 1: sk first 3 ch, dc into next and each st across. turn.

ROW 2: ch 1, 2 dc into first st, *sk 2 sts, sc 1 and dc 2 into next stitch, repeat * to the last 3 stitches, sk 2 and sc into the top of the turning ch.

ROW 3: ch 3, dc into next and into each st across, turn.

Repeat row 2 and 3 until the distance wraps all around your neck. I did 28 rows. 

with right sides together, sl stitch the ends together. sew in ends. 

Don't forget to tag me on instagram @daisyfarmcrafts if you decide to make this! I'd love to see and compliment you on your cowl! If you'd like to pin this to Pinterest the tiny button is just below. 

Thanks for stopping by and enjoy!

With love, 


Sunday, August 21, 2016

Mixed Cluster Stitch Cowl

I love learning a new stitch and then making up a pattern to go with it. I also like when the right type of yarn, with the right size hook, can make the stitch turn out perfectly.

I used Lion Brand Yarn "Lions Pride Woolspun" yarn to achieve this look. It is a size 5 Bulky weight yarn, 80% acrylic and 20% wool. 3.5 oz/100g.

If you can't find this exact brand of yarn, at least use a 5 bulky weight yarn to achieve this exact look. The weight makes a difference. Your stitches will not look the same with a smaller weight yarn.

I used an 8.00 "L" size hook, but depending on how loose or tight you personally crochet, you will want to go up or down a size.


Chain multiples of 2, then add 1 extra chain for your base chain. 

I chained 18 + 1 = 19

Feel free to adjust to how wide you'd like your cowl between your neck and collar bone. 

ROW 1: sc into third chain from hook, (counts as first sc) and in each ch across.

ROW 2: turn, ch 2 (counts as first hdc), yo, insert hook into first stitch, pull through only one loop, yo, pull through two loops, (two loops left on hook) (long dc made, or first half of the mixed cluster), sk one stitch, yo, insert hook into next stitch, pull through one loop, yo, insert hook again into same stitch, pull through one loop, yo, pull through all six loops on hook (mixed cluster made MC) ch 1 to close the cluster. **YO, insert hook into THE SAME STITCH, pull through one loop, yarn over pull through two loops, leave two loops on hook (Long DC made, first half of MC made), sk one st, yo, insert hook into next stitch, pull through one loop, yo, insert hook again into same stitch, pull through one loop, yo, pull through all six loops on hook (mixed cluster finished) ch 1 to close the cluster.  Repeat from ** ending the last stitch in the top of the turning chain with 1hdc. (TIP: try and go under both loops of turning chain, it looks neater when you're finished, so keep the turning chains a little loose.)

ROW 3: ch 2, (very loosely, this counts as your first sc), sk 1 st, sc into next and every st across, making sure you sc in the turning ch from previous row. (If you chose to start the base chain with 18, you should have just sc 18 across, including the first two ch)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have the length desired to wrap around your neck. I did 16 MC rows, That seemed to be long enough to fit comfortably around my daughters neck. Depending on how loose, or how tight you crochet, you will decide how long to make the cowl. 

With right sides together, sl stitch the ends across, fasten off, sew in ends.

Pattern notes: I don't know if the first half of the MC is called a long dc, it's just what I'm calling it. I've seen other MC patterns where they yo and pull through two, then leave two on the hook and proceed to finish the stitch the same way. For this weight of yarn, it didn't leave the first half of the MC tall enough and that is why I modified it. 

Good luck! Please feel free to pin this to Pinterest! There is a little button at the end of this post. Also, follow me on Instagram @daisyfarmcrafts and tag me when you finish your cowl!! I'd love to see. Or be brave and use #daisyfarmcrafts so everyone can see! 

You will find that the crochet community on Instagram is very supportive and loving so share away! 

With love,


My beautiful daughter 

Wednesday, August 10, 2016

Mint and Coral single and double crochet blanket

I'm too in love with this blanket to not share the pattern right away! Even though the blanket isn't finished, and I don't know what the border will be, I must share, that's how excited I am about this pattern!

It is a variation of a coral and grey I have done before, but these colors! And the yarn! It's all about the yarn for this one in my opinion. 

Do a foundation chain of multiples of 8 plus five.

ROW 1: (with white) 1 sc into 2nd ch from hook and every chain across to the end.

ROW 2: ch 1, turn, sc in first sc and in every sc across to the end.

ROW 3: (Change to mint) 1 sc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 3 chs, *1 dc into each of next 4 chs, 1 sc into each of next 4 sc; rep * to end, turn.

ROW 4: Ch 1, 1 sc into each of next 4 sc, *1 dc into each of next 4 dc, 1 sc into each of next 4 sc, rep * to end, turn.

ROW 5: (change to white) repeat row 1.

ROW 6: Repeat row 2

ROW 7: (change to coral) Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), sk first sc, 1 dc into each of next 3 sc, *1sc into each of next 4 sc, 1 dc into each of next 4 sc, rep from * to end, turn.

 ROW 8: Ch 3, sk first st, 1 dc into each of next 3 dc, *1 sc into each of next 4 sc, 1 dc into each of next 4 dc; rep from * to end, working last dc into 3rd of ch-3, turn.

ROW 9 to the end of the blanket however big you'd like to make it, repeat rows 1 to 8.

So to sum up, you are putting two rows of sc with the white, in between each row of the mint and coral.

The yarn I used, which I am recommending if you want this look, is Red Heart -WITH LOVE,

I am not suggesting Red Heart Super Saver. It's too scratchy. Don't do it, even though it's cheap and you'll find it on sale everywhere.

I use a K hook, feel free to go up a size or down, it all depends on how tight or loose you crochet.

Good luck! And please tag me on Instagram @daisyfarmcrafts. I would love to see how it's working out! 

Also, if you love, share with other crocheters on Pinterest. There is a button just below where it says "posted by Tiffany" or find me on pinterest and pin from there. Daisy Farm Crafts! 

Thank you!!


Thursday, August 4, 2016

Corner to Corner Crochet Heart

I'm going to do my best explaining how to do Corner to Corner crochet but honestly, if you have never done it, the best way to learn the technique is to just go to youtube and find someone who is teaching it. (Note to future self: do your own youtube tutorial.)

But, I'm anxious to share this blanket and remember how I did it, so when I do it again I will have a pattern..

The finished project:

I put a ruffle border around the edge:

Here is what it looks like mid project:

I used Hobby Lobby Yarn Bee Soft secret yarn with a "I" hook to achieve this look. Other yarn I recommend is Caron Simply soft. 

The basics:

Chain 6, in the 4th chain from hook, dc, then dc in remaining 2 ch spaces. then ch 6, in the 4th chain from the hook dc, then dc in remaining 2 ch spaces. 

You should have 2 little squares, now here is where it is tricky-- flip the first square so that the starting tail is in the bottom left hand corner, the tops of those dc's line up with the last dc you made and slip stitch into the first chain three space you made. So confusing, I know, but what you are trying to do is create one square with the dc horizontal and one vertical. 

So, if you get that, after you sl st, chain three and dc 3 more times all in the same space. You just made the third square, the very first square you made should be horizontal, with the tail hanging bottom left. The other two squares are vertical. 

Now, chain 6, dc in 4th chain from hook and remaining 2 chs, (just like above, this is how each square is made.)

Turn, but this is tricky again, slip stitch under the three chains of the previous square. Also you are twisting the square you just made so the dc are facing the opposite direction (horizontal vs vertical) Take the time here to wrap your mind around that and finding those three chains and turning will be easier. 

ch 3, dc 3 more times, slip stitch into next chain three space. repeat. 

Now you have three squares across. Repeat the turning process (chain 6, dc in 4th chain from hook, 3 more dc) and repeat another row, making 4 squares across and continue on from there.

(I recommend, if this is your first time doing c2c, to finish out a square in one color, so skip over the heart instructions and do the decrease section)

To make a heart, you will have to grab some graph paper and sketch one out. On an 8.5 x 11 piece of graph paper, the largest square I could map out was 32 squares x 32 and I drew a heart in the middle. My graph is pictured above. 

So here are some tips for changing colors. 

Have three balls of white yarn and two of the teal, and this is why, you will be changing color and then not fastening off, but picking up and using the yarn when you turn and come back around. So, you will join with a new color, crochet the number of squares on the pattern, pick up the white with a new ball of yarn, finish to the end and turn, then pick up the teal on your way back and then join up again with the first ball of white yarn. There was a point in the heart where a third ball of white (small) helps to carry the white across in the point. 

How to decrease:

According to your pattern you will get to the point where you will need to not add anymore rows, but decrease. When you get to that point, don't chain 6 and create a new square, instead, turn, slip stitch across the square you just made and then slip stitch into the ch 3 space and dc 3 times and make a square right next to that one. 

Ruffle border:

Sc around the edges one time, slip stitch to beginning sc, ch 1 turn.

4 dc in next sc, 2 dc in next, repeat all the way around, slip stitch into first dc, fasten off. 

Corner to Corner crochet creates a square blanket. 

This sounds so much more complicated than it actually is. Don't give up! I promise, you will feel like an expert once you master this. Seriously! And you will think, "hmm, she was right, it's not that complicated! It's a bunch of little blocks end on end." 

Tag me on instagram! @daisyfarmcrafts so I can see what you are up to! Or #daisyfarmcrafts and let's all share in your pain! and then growth! And then cheer when you've got it all figured out!!!

Love to you all,


update: This is a graph for a second blanket I did that turned out more oblong than perfect square. I just used a piece of graph paper and sketched a heart right in the middle. It's 41 blocks across, 33 blocks down, the edge of the heart starts 11 blocks in. I hope this graph can give you an idea as to how to make your own. The finished blanket turned out to be 36 inches by 28 inches. It is a baby blanket size.

Tuesday, July 26, 2016

Modern peach and blue Granny Blanket

As I made this, I felt like I was creating a series of triangles nestled in between each other which to me, gave the blanket a modern feel, hence, the name. Either way, this works up fast and is fun to memorize and pick up easily where you left off. 

So here is the pattern:

Chain 3 + 1 to however wide you'd like the blanket. I usually do somewhere between 32 and 36 inches wide for a baby blanket.

ROW 1: 1 dc into 4th ch from hook, *sk next 2 chs, 3 dc into next ch*, rep what's in between the astricks * ending last rep with 2 dc into last ch, turn

ROW 2: Ch 3, 1 dc into next dc, (ch 3 counts as first dc), *ch 2, dc3tog,* repeat ** ending last repeat with ch 2, dc into next dc, 1 dc into 3rd of beg skipped ch 3, turn


ROW 3: Ch 3, 3 dc in the ch 2 space between the last dc3tog and 2 dc of previous row, *3 dc into next ch 2 space,  repeat ** ending with 1 dc in top of 3rd ch of turning chain, turn.

ROW 4: Ch 4, (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch), *dc3tog in top of each 3 dc of previous row, ch 2,* repeat * across and end with ch 1, dc into top of ch 3 turning chain, turn.


ROW 5: Ch 3, 1 dc into dc (the base of the ch 3), 3 dc in next ch 2 space, repeat across ending with 2 dc into 3rd of ch 4, turn.

ROW 6: Ch 3, 1 dc into the next dc, *ch 2, dc3tog, repeat ** ending last repeat with dc into next dc, 1 dc into 3rd of ch 3, turn.

repeat rows 3-6 until you have a desired length of blanket.

Here are a few tips I realized while making this blanket that might be helpful to you.

Since each finished "triangle" (the dc that stack on each other) are nestled in between each other, you will notice that the number of them will be different each color change. For example, I did a small swatch to test the pattern and I ended up with 8 "triangles in one row, then 9 in the next, then back to 8 then back to 9. What I noticed are the rows that have 8 are also the rows where you have 2 dc and the end of the rows. The rows that had 9 "triangles" only had 1dc on the end.

I hope that makes sense to you and you can find success learning this pattern. Email me with questions you might have, and please feel free to tag me on instagram @daisyfarmcrafts or use #daisyfarmcrafts.

Oh the yarn! I almost forgot. I used one skein each of Caron Simply soft in White, lt blue, and peach it was just enough for my blanket that ended up measuring 34X34, using an "H" size hook. You might be different, have different tension and need a different size hook.

I did add a simple sc border around the whole blanket making sure I sc 3 into each corner.

Good luck!

With Love, Tiffany

Twitter: @daisyfarmcrafts
Instagram @daisyfarmcrafts

Friday, July 8, 2016

Gray and Yellow bobble and mesh stitch blanket

Made with 100% cotton and 100% love. I can't stop holding this blanket and hope the baby that eventually is cuddled up in this feels warm and happy. 


"I love this cotton" brand from Hobby Lobby. Don't have Hobby Lobby? The cotton is 3.5 oz / 100g medium weight "4"

H hook

I used about 4 skeins of white, 2 buttercup, 2 dove, I think, I'm sorry I didn't keep track, but please buy more than you need to make sure you have enough. This cotton is great for washcloths so you could do something extra. 

Pattern: (USA terms)

Chain in a series of 4 to your desired length. I like to make baby blankets between 32 and 36 inches. So, however many chains you make, make that number divisible by 4.

ROW 1: (Mesh stitch rows) In second chain from hook, sc, ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch, repeat across. ch1 turn.

ROW 2: sc into sc of previous row, ch 1, sc in next sc of previous row,  repeat across.

ROW 3-6: Repeat row 2. 

ROW 7: (Bobble row) sc in first sc, ch 1, *dc3tog in next sc space, ch 1, sc in next sc of previous row, ch 1*, repeat ** across. ch1 turn

ROW 8: *Sc in first sc, ch 1, sc into top of bobble stitch, ch 1*, repeat * across

ROW 9: Bobble Row, repeat instructions for row 7.

(I chose to do 3 rows of bobble stitches) 

Then do 6 rows of mesh stitch in between your next rows of bobble stitches and start getting creative. Use your own color changes and ideas of how you want your blanket to look like. 

Tips, the bobble row will always be done so the bobbles pop out on the right side. There is a right side and wrong side to this blanket. You'll know you might have done one too many rows of mesh stitch if your bobbles are popping out the wrong way. Always to a row of mesh stitch in between the bobble stitch row so that you are doing them on the right side, hope that makes sense.

In the rows that I did alternating buttercup and dove bubble stitches, I did a row of white mesh stitch. Again, play around with what you like. 

I finished the blanket by going around the entire blanket with a mesh stitch and three sc into each corner. 

(a bobble stitch can be 5dctog, but sort of looks more popcorn to me, and with the yarn I chose, 3dctog, seemed to be just enough.) 

Good luck! Follow me on Instagram @daisyfarmcrafts and see what other baby blankets I come up with, I share all my patterns. Also, feel free to pin this to pinterest! I love sharing! 

With love,


Wednesday, June 8, 2016

Striped Mesh Stitch Blanket

The mesh stitch is a very easy stitch to do with fantastic results. I like that both sides of the blanket look the same. There is no right side or wrong side, except for the shell border, but that doesn't matter at all. 

(and I'm so excited to share this pattern, I haven't blocked this blanket yet, so the pictures are of the blanket fresh off the hook. It will be taking a bath soon, but I couldn't wait to share.)

So here is what I did to make this blanket. 

First, the yarn. This is Isaac Mizrahi brand from Michael's stores in the U.S. It is a "3" weight yarn. 

Hook: I used an "H" size hook, but that doesn't mean you have too. It depends on your own personal tension. Practice with a size up or down to see what you think. 

Size: This blanket is about 30 X 30 and four skeins of yarn was plenty, two in princess, two in castle. (That's what Isaac named his colors) (Basically, pink and grey)

Pattern: US terms

Make a chain as long as you'd like in multiples of 2.

Row 1: 1 sc into 2nd ch from hook, *ch 1, skip next ch, 1 sc into next ch* repeat * to the end, turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc into first sc, *ch 1, 1 sc into next sc* repeat * to the end, turn.

Repeat row two 4 more times, then change colors. 

Repeat row 2 six times, then change colors again. 

Each block of colors is six rows. 

Here's a tip: leave your tails hanging and weave in later, it helps you to know when you've reached the sixth row. I had a hard time distinguishing how many rows I had made. But having the tails out, was an easy marker, they should all be on one side of the blanket. 


Sc around the entire blanket two times. I stitched into the sc, and ch spaces and on the sides I put one stitch per row. I also did extra sc around the corners. 

Shell: 1sc, *skip next sc, 5 dc into next sc, skip next sc, 1 sc into next sc,* repeat *to the end.

As always, leave me a comment if you have a question, or this pattern doesn't make sense to you and I will help you as much as possible. 

Also, tag me on instagram if you attempt this project! I'd love to see!! I'm @daisyfarmcrafts and use #daisyfarmcrafts for a hashtag so others can see too!  

With love,