Sunday, December 18, 2016

Crochet Buffalo Plaid

I'm making a scarf using the interlocking block stitch with four colors to make it look like buffalo plaid.


I'm using Caron Simply Soft in black, light grey, dark grey, white and a size "h" hook from Boye.

Here's the pattern:

Start with a base chain of multiples of 6, then add 3. (You'll see this written in other patterns as 6 + 3)

Row 1: With black, dc in the 4th chain from the hook, (the first 3 chains you are skipping are counted as your first dc), do one more dc in the next chain. Then chain 3, skip over three chains, and dc in the next 3 chains. You are creating blocks and spaces of 3. Repeat this to the end. (The last 3 stitches should be dc)

Switch to light grey yarn color, chain 3 and turn

Row 2: dc into each of the chains on the base chain row, skipping over the dc you just made from the row before. you are filling in the blocks. (in the example above, you started with black, now you are using light grey) (Can you see how they line up next to each other?)

(If this is confusing to you, I have a video that shows how I dc into the row below to fill in the space. Sometimes this is called a dc spike stitch. It simply means you are inserting your hook one row down.) (This clip shows what you will be doing throughout, but for this one time only, to get started you will dc into the base chains)



When you get to the end of the row, (your last space is filled with 3 dc) chain 3 and slip stitch into the top of the turning chain 3. Make sure you change yarn color before you pull through the slip stitch. I changed to dark grey here.

Row 4: Chain 3 with your dark grey color, (this counts as your first dc) dc into the top of the next two dc, (on top of the black) chain three, skipping over the light grey blocks, dc into the top of the next 3 black blocks. When you get to the last three dc, change color to white and turn. (the very last dc will be into the base of the chain 3 that counts as a dc, try and find that space where the yarn was switched and the dc you work into that spot will cover it and also help secure it)

Row 5: With the white color, chain 3, skip over the block of dark grey, and do 3 dc into the light grey, then chain three, repeat to the end, doing a slip stitch just like in row 3. (remember to change color before pulling through, or another way to say it is pull through that slip stitch with the new color) 

You will be repeating rows 4 and 5, changing colors until you get the scarf as long as you'd like. 

Here is a video clip of me changing colors at the end of a dc row, notice how I don't complete the dc fully, I change yarn color then complete the stitch: 




To recap on color changes: 

Start with Black, change to light grey, then to dark gray, then to white, back to black. Keep in this order. It helps to have your yarn lined up in this order until you really can see the pattern forming. 

Final note: THE ENDS!! I tried crocheting over them and they showed through and ruined the look of the plaid. (Maybe if you are using different yarn than me, they would hide better?) But, I couldn't get them to hide.

My plan, since I haven't completed the scarf quite yet, is to pull them tight, maybe knot a few together, and then crochet around the whole scarf in black over all the ends. I hope that it works! I think it will, but I will come back and do an edit and let you know.

If it doesn't, I guess I will be weaving in for the next ten years! ha!

Let me see your work! Share with me on instagram @daisyfarmcrafts or use the #daisyfarmcrafts 

Thanks for stopping by,

If you do have questions, email me daisyfarmcrafts@gmail.com, or leave a comment, but email is faster.

xoxo

Tiffany

Wednesday, December 7, 2016

Crochet Baby Sweater in white, pink and gray


I use a free pattern on Ravelry to make this baby sweater, but modify it with only a few changes.

(I also am using different yarn than the original pattern. I'm using organic cotton from Blue Sky Fibers, which is about a 4 weight yarn. This sweater turns out to be about a 9-12 month size. I used a 5.5mm "I" Hook.



Find the pattern by clicking this sentence









One the sixth row, instead of hdc (half double crochet) in every space, I alternated hdc, hdc3tog in the same space making a cluster. (Instruction for a hdc3tog or cluster: yo, insert hook into the space, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook back into the same space, pull up a loop, yo and do it one last time, then pull through all loops on your hook, move on to the next space with a normal hdc)

In the picture above, it's the second gray stripe that I did that technique. (The first gray stripe I'm counting as the neck.)

I only did this technique with the grey and pink. I did have to fudge a little under the arms, meaning, I would look ahead, and if the last stitch was going to be a cluster, I'd do two hdc in a row, but under the arm where it wasn't noticeable. The reason being is I wanted the beginning and end of each row to be a hdc. I hope that makes sense. 

The other change I had to make was joining the sleeves much earlier than row 14 which is suggested in the pattern. Because I was using much larger yarn, and I wanted to make a sweater for about a ninth month old, I joined the sleeves at about row 8. 

The last suggestion I have for you is to practice this pattern and get a feel for it. Make it first the way it's written, so you can see how to modify it. I have used and modified this pattern several times and what I usually tell myself is just sub a stitch for a stitch and see what happens. 


I did make a simple heart in a magic ring that I sewed onto one side. 

Pattern for that is as follows:

start a magic ring with 2 chains, then do 1dc, 1tc, 1dc, 4sc, 1dc, 4 sc, 1dc, 1tc, all into the magic ring loop. Pull it tight and arrange the stitches, then chain 2 and slip stitch into the middle of the ring, tighten one more time and cut a long tail. I use this tail as the yarn that sews the heart onto the sweater. Weave in the ends and your done.







before I added sleeves

The pattern doesn't exactly tell you how to make sleeves, just to add them if you wish, but I found that if I kept really good track of the amount of stitches in each round, there wasn't a problem. When I got down to the wrist and change color the first time, I decreased the stitches in the round by 2. (Which means I did a hdc2tog over 2 stitches to make one)

I hope you have success! If you sub the yarn and use an acrylic I think the clusters will be poofy and not quite so flat. Yarn type does make a project look different.

Either way, I'd love to see what you come up with! Tag me on instagram @daisyfarmcrafts or use the #daisyfarmcrafts so everybody can see!

If you have questions, either leave a comment, or email me at daisyfarmcrafts@gmail.com and I will try and help you as best I can.

Thank you so much for stopping by!

xxoo

Tiffany


Friday, December 2, 2016

Crochet Modified Moss Stitch Scarf

A few posts back, I described how to make the moss stitch. Sometimes called Linen Stitch, Granite Stitch, Seed Stitch, any one else want to suggest a name? I guess when you are a lovely stitch, you can have as many names as you would like. 

I modified the stitch a small amount, and got a completely different look for this scarf. 



Here is what I did: 
Supplies: 
Yarn Bee Interlocked Yarn in Mustard, Ivory, Charcoal, two skeins each
Size "N" hook

Chain an even number of stitches. For this I chained 30

Row 1: In the 4th chain from the hook, sc. *ch 1, sk next ch, sc into the next.* Repeat across. The last stitch should be a sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 2: *sc into the front loop of the first chain space, (this is the modification, instead of sc-ing into the chain space, go into the front loop only) chain 1,* Repeat the pattern across. The last sc will be into the front loop of the 2nd chain of the turning chain from the row before. Always look for this certain stitch so your sides remain straight. 

That's it for the pattern,

Here are the color changes I used: 
14 rows Ivory
14 rows Mustard
3 rows charcoal
3 rows ivory
3 rows charcoal
3 rows ivory
14 rows Mustard
14 rows ivory
14 rows charcoal
14 rows mustard
3 rows ivory
3 rows charcoal
3 rows ivory
3 rows charcoal
14 rows mustard
14 rows ivory
  



Enjoy!

I love to see all the crochet! I really do, so tag me if you decided to make some version of this! Find me on Instagram @daisyfarmcrafts. Use the #daisyfarmcrafts if you'd like and let us all see! There is a great community on Instagram for crocheters. You won't be sad joining up and sharing what you make.